Ethiopian Eats

Walia Ibex

After the first week of arriving in Amsterdam, so in September 2012, I made very good friends with Megan AKA Megzymoo etc. She lives in De Pijp, as do I, and we both hit it off with a nice cold beer in Rembrandtplein after she retaught me how to ride a bike (one of the scariest things about living in NL- having to get back onto that childhood play thing as a competent adult). On our way home she showed me where she lived so that we could meet again. That fateful day led to two discoveries…. Taart van mijn tante and Walia Ibex. We will return to the funky cake café on a later date- today’s post is all about the Ethiopian!!

Situated on Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat right opposite Marieheinekenplein, it has a perfect de pijp centrality yet off the main street giving a little more of a quieter eating experience; as it was, excellent for a Wednesday evening.

I had eaten Ethiopian before when I was studying at the University of Leeds. I went to a talk by Oxfam discussing land grabs and Ethiopia is a country targeted in that unjust mess. After lots of interesting debates and discourse the evening was completed with live African music and an amazing buffet put on by a local Leeds Ethiopian restaurant, Merkato. For any Leeds people out there, click below to get the address and read a review (they don’t have their own website), just lovely people and exceptional food.

http://leedsgrub.blogspot.nl/2009/10/merkato-ethiopian-cafe.html 

It was great!! I love spicy food and curry flavours, and it didn’t disappoint. Having said that, the Ethiopian food I have tried has not been over spicy at all. Comparing it to Indian curries, I would say the spiciest Ethiopian food was about a Dopiaza. Perhaps thi sis typical or if I have just been choosing the wrong things off the menu! Anyway, I happened to be with a vegetarian at the time and sometimes a veggie can be in despair at buffet style events- ‘what if I can’t eat anything’- Ethiopian food is traditionally vegetarian friendly because of its Muslim, meat fasting connections, and so there was much to offer. Of course, lots of meat dishes too.

Okay, so that was my first experience. The second, and certainly not the last, was at Walia Ibex in Amsterdam.

Megz and me strolled into the restaurant at 20:15 and sat in a cosy window seat. There was only one other table occupied, 4 Dutchies chatting away, and we opened up the menu after being greeted by the friendly owner. The first thing to contemplate unsurprisingly was what to drink!! We wanted to try something that would go with the food and what do we usually have with a good curry? A good beer! The menu gave us four options for African beers- quinua, coconut, palm and banana. Flippin’ heck banana beer! Underneath the list, Megan noticed in smaller writing, ‘please ask if you would like to drink your beer out of a coconut’… yes please. So we did and it was awesome. Throughout the night we tried the quinua, coconut and banana, and personally the banana was the best. It wasn’t too sweet for my taste (maybe for others) and I think that people who usually don’t like beer would actually quite enjoy this one mainly because it wasn’t hoppy. The quinua was essentially just a normal white beer- and coconut beer being drunk out of a coconut- ingenious!

If it didn’t take us long enough to choose a beer, then the food was an age. What a selection! The menu was split into meat options and vegetarian options, we could choose just one dish (pretty much always being served alongside cottage cheese and spinach) or we could have a combination of two for the same price, but smaller portions, or a combination of four, smaller portions still. We struggled long and hard to decide and even had the owner over to give us recommendations because there was so much yummy sounding stuff on there. The meat choices were lamb, minced beef, beef chunks and chicken, the vegetarian ones were full of lentils, pumpkin, green beans and potatoes- literally I wanted it all. In the end Megan got two meat options: Minchetbish, which was ingra served with beef mince in an Abyssinian red sauce and Ye Beg Alicha a dish of fried chopped lambs meats in a curry sauce. I got A Tekilt, ingra served with vegetables including potatoes, cabbage,carrots and green beans, then a chicken and egg dish served with the spicy Abyssinian sauce called Doro Wot.

                                                                                                   

When our food arrived the guy gave us a demonstration of how to eat it! As you can see on the pictures, the food is placed on flat bread called Ingera and we were given a couple more of the flat breads each to use to eat with. He tore of a little bit of bread from his Ethiopian eating demo kit and used it to pinch some food. We did the same and he was happy enough that we could manage and started to walk back to the kitchen but not before quickly turning around saying, ‘if you find it too difficult I can give you a knife and fork!’

We started to eat, pinching bits of each other’s plates (one of the best things about these kinds of food) and spreading the food across the bottom piece of bread. The guy told us to do this as when we got down to eating the last piece of bread, all of the flavours and juices would have soaked in- he was not wrong. My chicken dish was quite spicy, yet not over powering. Megan isn’t a big fan of too much heat and she tried some with no difficulty. The mixed vegetable curry was chunky and textured making it easy to grab between the bread, and the cottage cheese and spinach were perfect compliments and found their way into our mouths with ease.

One of the funniest things about eating with the bread was working out how to pace it-we didn’t want to run out the bread and equally not devour all the curry leaving only bread left.  I feel practice makes perfect here but we managed well for a first sit down Ethiopian meal.

In the middle of the evening I glanced around the room and enjoyed the decorations, elephants made out of wood, big green plants with floppy leaves and bright yellow wall paint. It was a fun place to be eating. On a door leading upstairs to a private area, I noticed a poster advertising their homemade Ethiopian wine which was made out of honey. Well I couldn’t go home without trying it so when the waiter came over to ask us how it was all going I asked for a glass. When he brought it over I was surprised to see a thick, opaque, yellow liquid in a wine glass. However, when I tasted it there were amazing flavours of honey which reminded me of mead really. What a find.

After the meal when we were paying, I had a jolly good chat with the guy and found out all about the place. We only ever saw him and we began to contemplate if he was doing all of the cooking as well. Turned out that there was someone else in the kitchen, but everything was so chilled out. All night we were given space and time for everything. I am never very quick and choosing what to eat(!) and he was patient, letting us ask questions and even demoed the eating technique. There was gentle African music playing in the background and we weren’t forced to leave as soon as we finished, in fact our plates were left untouched in front of us while we chatted away. I really enjoy that relaxed feel.

I didn’t get the owners name, but they have been in business for over 8 years and intend to stay. They do buffet meals, which he agreed were lots of fun, and he explained how he made the honey wine. Just lovely service by a family run restaurant where we felt entirely introduced to the Ethiopian cuisine. They do not have a website at the moment so here are the details:

Address: Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 41, 1072 BD, Amsterdam
Phone: 020 671 3466
Opening Hours: Monday-Sunday 5pm-10:30pm

On an au pair wage (next to nothing) I felt that it was a nice place to go to try something new and have fun for a special occasion. For two drinks each, two Ingra and the food we paid 20.20 per person, not including the tip we left. I can understand that for some people paying that amount on a Wednesday night isn’t their ideal thing- but that is what I like to spend my money on!!!

It was a quiet, chatty sort of evening and so if it is a boisterous pre-party meal you are looking for, then I am not sure it is the right place. However, walking past Walia Ibex on a Friday and Saturday night, it is full to bursting.

Hope you can check the place out at some point and there are a handful of other Ethiopian restaurants in Amsterdam as well. Let’s enjoy those Ethiopian Eats.

Jo* 

Stroopwafels: biscuit paradise

Stroopwafels

Quite sure that I am going to win this debate (if there is one): these are the best sweet things to have come out the Netherlands. These bad boys don’t exactly look spectacular, none of that artistic precision like a French patisserie… but my goodness they are heaven’s version of a caramel biscuit.

They come in many sizes yet always the same shape. Round with two biscuits squashing a layer of yummy caramel. Fantastic with a cuppa or a coffee and once you open a pack they aren’t going to last long.

Whenever I head home to England I take back a bountiful supply for my sister and Dad as they are hopelessly addicted, as so many are. When stalking the shelves of Albert Heijn I literally have to avoid the biscuit aisle or I would be the size of three whales by now. Nevertheless, a biscuit a day keeps the doctor away and I take that very seriously.

In fact, I just did a little google search and up popped the ‘Assosiation of Stroopwafel Addicts’. Their only rule of membership is that you have eaten a Dutch stroopwafel (no other kinds are applicable!). Check it out…

http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Association_of_Stroopwafel_Addicts

Small History

So as with all little specialities, there is a story. The stroopwafel originated in Gouda in the late 18th century. A baker collected all the leftover crumbs and spices, turned it into a wafel and then proceeded to fill it with syrup. Thanks will eternally be to that Mr Baker Gerard Kamphuisen and his biscuit epiphany! As they were made out of cheap ingredients they were affordable for the poor. They still are a tasty but not an expensive treat unless you buy the amazing tin boxes and tourist type produce. Albert Heijn sells them for about 64 cents a  packet (if you want to be a real Dutchie and hold on tight to those purse strings!) So yeah, I am probably going to head to Gouda pretty soon for some cheese and stroopwafel fun :)

So where can you get 'em from?

Well any supermarket or shop sells stroopwafels, and like I said just before, they are cheap and in large supply so beware of your waistline. We have similar products back in England which are most likely called syrup waffles. I have seen them in Marks and Spencer and they just aren't as good. You need to get yourself over to the Netherlands and have a fresh one from a market.

All sellers are using slightly different recipes and even with secret ingredients etc. At this point in time I am not too bothered about making them; I just want to put them in my mouth, chew, swallow and enter a euphoric state that beats downing a kilo of chocolate!

The Albert Cuyp market has a fresh stroopwafel stand. The same cheeky chappy is always there spending his days serving up little round bits of heaven for the passers-by. A week is not a good one if a stroopwafel has not been munched. He gets two parts of the biscuit mixture and places them in the wafel making machine or pizzelle iron. When they are cooked he opens the irons, drizzles warm caramel over one of the biscuit halves and next places the second biscuit on top to make a caramel biscuit sandwich. He then hands it over and the nomming commences. On the Albert Cuyp market a fresh stroopwafel is just 1.50 eur and it is huuge! You can pay an extra 50 cents and get half of it dipped in chocolate- decadence I tell you. 

They are best enjoyed warm so if you have bought a packet, pop a stroopy or three in the microwave for a few seconds to get the juices flowing and then enjoy alongside a warm beverage, resulting a solemn moment of pure contentment with the world... ahhh. Although once you have tried them fresh nothing will compare so I would suggest making the most of this Dutchie delight while you have the chance. 

A Little Recipe

I haven’t tried this as I don’t own the correct wafel equipment (yet!) however it comes from a trustworthy foody lady…. Let’s give it a gander.

Ingredients

For The Wafels:
4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/2 cup white sugar
1 cup unsalted butter
2 large eggs
1 package active dry yeast
1/2 cup warm water

For The Filling:
1 1/2 cups packed brown sugar
1 cup unsalted butter
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
6 tablespoons dark corn syrup
1/2 cup finely ground hazelnuts, optional*

Method

Preheat pizzelle iron.

Dissolve the yeast in the warm water.
Cut 1 cup of the butter into the flour. Mix in the sugar, cinnamon, eggs and yeast mixture. Mix well and set aside to rise for 30 to 60 minutes.

Roll dough into 12 small balls, squeeze each ball into the preheated pizzelle iron and bake for about 30 seconds. Cut the wafels into two thin wafels and spread with filling.
In a saucepan boil the brown sugar, the remaining cup of butter, cinnamon, and dark corn syrup until it reaches the soft ball stage (234-240 degrees F 112 -115 degrees C). Stir in ground hazelnuts at this point, if using.

To Assemble
Cut each wafel into 2 thin wafels and spread with filling. Repeat this process until all the filling is used. 

Give it a go!!!

There is nothing much else to say about this orgasmic treat that I can put into words. So eat one.

Oh yeh, they also do stroopwafel ice-cream :) :)

Recipe from:

http://www.dianasdesserts.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/recipes.recipeListing/filter/dianas/recipeID/694/Recipe.cfm 

Jo*

The Albert Cuyp Market

So close to home!

When I first visited Amsterdam with a University trip I didn't manage to stumble upon the Albert Cuyp market. Probably because it was snowed under and we were totally unprepared for it so spent most of the three days hiding in cafés and museums. It wasn't until I had a real Dutch guide around the city, my good friend Wouter, that I found the sensational street market. Therefore it was such a happy coincidence that when I eventually moved here my host family lived just a couple of streets away. I can’t imagine now not being so close to all of the Dutch delights. As well as all of the food and drink stalls there are several bloemen stands which provide my bedroom with beautiful, bright flowers. Furthermore, Cuyp sells random gadgets, toys, clothes, textiles, antiques, carpets and furniture. It is just incredible and I find myself visiting the 1 mile or more-long street most days just for a wander, a small purchase or a sneaky sample of cheese.

Small History

The market became official in 1905 when the government got fed up of the chaos of random stalls everywhere. It was just open for a short time on a Saturday evening and then in 1912 it became as it is now, open Monday through to Saturday. Albert Cuyp was the name of a 17^th century Dutch painter.

Click on the link below to access the official website for the market. Several languages are available.

http://www.albertcuypmarkt.nl/

There are a few points I wish to share, which are all linked to the market and therefore I won’t be fitting them all in this one post. I will be referring back to this little gem quite a bit so keep a look out.

 

The reason I wanted to begin with the market is because when dealing with food it is essential to know where to get your products from. This market has nearly everything a person could desire to get a good cook on. Firstly there is the fresh produce: vegetables, fish, meat, nuts, chocolates, and spices. The colours of the veg are just thrilling. On a dreary day there is nothing more cheery than seeing the perfectly displayed red, green and yellow peppers, juicy purple beetroots, huge orange squashes, tiny button mushrooms and strange, curly, bendy forest mushrooms.  Placed amongst long leeks, earthy potatoes, weird varieties of veg I have never seen before and can’t even tell you their names, there are crunchy cauli’s, bulging broccolis and baskets and baskets of fresh coriander, basil, tijm, ginger and garlic. Maybe it is just a foody kinda thing, but I can’t resist the beauty of the produce and even though my au pair deal means my food is included, I just want to buy it all! I honestly can’t say I have seen anything like it back in old GB apart from at farmers markets. Albert Cuyp is cheap at half the price. There is nothing more comforting and heart-warming than seeing good solid food being sold for a decent price with a smile practically on your doorstep!

Now for the rest. The smells (if you can stand fishiness) are just fab. Wandering along you start to smell the just-coming-into-bloom tulips then a bit further the promise of a fresh stroopwafel lingers in the air. Next the nuts and dried fruits come into view, just rows and rows of everything you want to nibble on. They don’t seem to sell things like ground almonds in the Dutch supermarkets- Albert will not disappoint!!

The chocolate stand is one of my favourites. To keep up the Amsterdam persona it even sells chocolate boobs, penises and vaginas- just what you fancy on a Monday morning. The fresh fish looks and tastes flippin’ marvellous. When my sister came to visit we bought fresh salmon and then some vegetables and made an amazing Thai dish. (Recipe can be shared if you wish!). 

The fishiness then dissolves into a tangy acidic scent and we have stopped in front of the juice stalls. You can choose between freshly squeezed orange juice, fruit smoothies, coconut milk and pineapple based drinks all for 1.50 euro each. Great to grab for getting that hit of vitamin C into your body. 

Leaving the healthy drinks we are soon to stumble upon the chickens slowly roasting on a spit- if that doesn't make your mouth water then I don’t know what will. Chicken saté can also be purchased here, which is a big dish in Holland. I am finding it similar to our steak and kidney pie, fish and chips, and chicken tikka masala; it is a guaranteed option in most eating places pub grub style.

 I am not sure if you can smell the cheese stands at every turn, however, you can certainly see the glowing yellow rounds of the best Holland cheeses glaring in your direction as you navigate your way through the thick crowds. There are samples galore and you shouldn't shy away from asking questions, having a quick munch and buying something you really enjoy.

Backing onto the main street stalls there are tonnes of bakers, butchers, cafés and restaurants, which took me a good few weeks to even notice they were there. It feels like there are four rows of food and drink to be discovered on one busy street- I find new things every time and still can’t hunt down places I have been told are definitely there! It is exciting to see how many different cultures are represented around the market. It reminds me of being back at university in Leeds, living up in Headingley or around Hyde park with all of the Asian shops selling the most different and exotic looking goods. The international supermarket got a lot of custom from our house on Brudenell view! Back to Amsterdam though, there are Surinamese stalls, Moroccan stands and Turkish vendors giving out dollops of humus on their freshly baked bread, yesterday a Hungarian booth appeared. The market really does epitomise the multiculturalism of De Pijp. To put it simply there is so much to discover on this one street and if you are a tourist then it is essential (in my opinion) that you put this somewhere in your travel agenda. Even if you aren't in need of a weekly shop you can most certainly find a bustling café on the corner to watch the people go by.

Eating hint: grab bits and pieces from all over the market and have a little tapas style party! Feta cheese, sun dried tomatoes, chunky fresh bread, olives, humus, Dutch old cheese, salad, herring and gherkins. Have a feast!

Although the market has many inspired food cultures we cannot ignore the fact that it is in Holland…. And the classic Dutch favourites are what I crave more than anything. Stroopwafels, poffertjes, cheese and vlaamse frites, just to name a few, are dotted around the market and my life would not be the same right now without them!! I still haven’t dared to try raw herring, maybe I will before I leave. Not making any promises though.

So this was just a little introduction as to what the Albert Cuyp market has to offer and to celebrate De Pijp as a centre of multicultural eating and drinking. The cute cafés, restaurants and little specialities will be covered individually and in muchos detail soon- got to give them the time they deserve!

Jo*

Let the food fest begin....

I was not always known as being the fabby food maker of the group (baked beans incident- one fine example!) however I love food and I love to travel- what better way is there to extend a cooking repertoire and practice those kitchen techniques. Happy to say that I am now fairly confident in the kitchen, especially in the baking department, I have to give thanks to all of those women in the family (unfortunately no males have come out of the closet of culinary genius yet, apart from UJ) and my experiences of living away from home. I just thrive on soaking up any new flavours, ideas and masterpieces of food, drink and anything rather tastual. These discoveries will be delivered to you all through this blog- travels with your taste buds- what better way is there to appreciate a culture than through what it has to offer your stomach ;)

I am currently living in Amsterdam, The Netherlands working as an au pair for a French family- already two food cultures to explore on a daily basis. I also studied in Nantes, France for a year and got to discover the brilliance of Breton foods. I would love to share with you what I have seen and tasted, the best places to eat (in my opinion), typical dishes to scoff, different takes on ‘foreign’ foods and some ravenous recipes to try.

Albert Cuyp market- a couple of streets from where I live- nice food and flowers :) 

As this is the first post here is a taster of the kind of things that are coming up… !!

• ·         The Netherlands’s culinary past
• ·         Albert Cuyp Market
• ·         Stroopwafels, hagelslag and the Dutch desire for sweetness
• ·         My favourite Amsterdam restaurants
• ·         Food in France- galettes et crepes, du cidre, caramel beurre salé, sel de Guérande
• ·         International food in Amsterdam
• ·         Bars and clubs,  Cafés and afternoon tea

Anyhow, this is going to be a journey through culinary curiosities, delicious delights and new sources of nomminess- join me fellow foody fans and let the food fest begin :)

Jo*